Milk-Rich Oyster Stew with Crushed Saltines

A gentle milk-and-butter oyster stew, sweetened by soft onion and celery, finished with crushed saltines over the brine. It echoes the cellar stews of Oysters Under the Gas Jets, when New York Harbor made cheap luxury from shells and gaslight.

Serves 4

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Ingredients

• 1 pint jarred oysters in liquor
• 4 cups whole milk
• 6 tbsp unsalted butter
• 1 small yellow onion
• 1 celery stalk
• 3/4 tsp white pepper
• 1/2 tsp ordinary salt
• 40 saltine crackers

Instructions

1. 1Finely dice the onion and celery.
2. 2Melt butter in a heavy pot over medium-low heat, add the onion and celery, and cook gently for 6 minutes without browning.
3. 3Pour in the milk and reserved oyster liquor, add white pepper and salt, then heat slowly until steam rises and tiny bubbles appear at the edge (do not boil).
4. 4Add the oysters and their remaining liquor; simmer on the lowest heat for 4 minutes until the edges of the oysters just begin to curl.
5. 5Remove from heat, stir in the remaining butter until melted, then ladle into bowls.
6. 6Crush 10 saltines per serving directly into each bowl of stew just before eating.